Distant Wanderings: Peru Part Four: In which we rough it on a beautiful island and I get ready to return home

At times during the past couple of weeks, I´ve thought wistfully of what must be the pleasant early-May weather back home. But I have never yearned for May flowers quite as much as in the past few evenings spent on the coast of Lake Titicaca. It´s bone-chillingly cold up there, and alpaca mittens and leg warmers can only go so far to warm one up. Despite this, we had a great trip out to visit three islands in the lake. The first was actually a group of man-made islands formed from reeds. The islands are soft and squishy and the inhabitants (when not selling trinkets to boatloads of tourists) live a very traditional life.

From there we moved on to Isla Amantaní, where we spent the night at the home of a local family. Theirs is a very rustic home: although we did have actual beds to sleep on, there was only an outhouse, no running water that we could detect, and no electricity. No electricity means no heat and no heat means sleeping all bundled up in full winter regalia including aforementioned alpaca goods, plus winter hat and ski coat, covered with two alpaca wool blankets. But add to that the stillness of a vehicle-free and tranquil island, the contented exhaustion at the end of a day of hiking to explore its scenic hilltop temples, the sound of gentle waves lapping at the shore, and overall it was a beautiful place to spend the night. The next day we visited Isla Taquile, another beautiful spot, but one whose lasting impression will always be the 500 steps leading up from the port to the town. The other night, we went to a bar and Marco and I wanted to dance, but felt winded after just one song. These are the effects at 12,000 feet of altitude, so imagine what 500 steps can do!

Now I´m back in Cusco, wandering its pretty streets and killing time until my flight tomorrow. Marco and Edward are in Arequipa, but they arrive in Lima tomorrow, at the same time as I arrive for my seven-hour layover, so we plan to meet up and explore the city together, at least for a little while.

It´s been a great trip, full of challenges and lots of fun, but I´m definitely ready to go home again.

Here are some photo highlights of the last few days:

Playing house with a couple of local girls on the floating islands, and (as usual) having some fun with my flip-screen camera:

Our house and outhouses on Amantaní (the green one is a squatter toilet--just a hole in the ground with two places to put your feet--and given the state of the actual toilet, I´ve never been so happy to see one of those.)